SR-C50 - Topfixed Inline Adjustable Stair Handrail

We would generally recommend keeping the handrail between 900mm-1100mm in height. For a home installation, it can be helpful to adjust the height of the rail up or down to suit the person who it is being installed for. Example: For a tall person, keep the height closer to 1100mm. We also have smaller options available in case the rail is to be fitted on top of a wall running parallel with the steps.

A handrail should finish 300mm beyond the end of a steps on either end where possible. However, circumstances can sometimes dictate that this is not possible. For example, there is no point in running a handrail out where it is protruding into a driveway, pathway or causing an obstruction.

Remember what your Dad told you? 'Measure Twice, Cut Once' You know the phrase!

For kits with a post top and bottom, simply measure from one point to the other, where you want to position each post.
Allow a little bit extra to suit if the rail overhangs the posts.

For wall to post handrails, measure from the point on the wall where you want to place your wall flange, to the top of the post(usually 1m from the ground). Again allow for whatever overhang you are looking to leave, as well as the angle which you want to run your rail at.

Whether you are mounting to the wall or to ground, be sure that the area is cleaned so that it can receive the base flange or railing bracket without obstruction.

Anchoring to concrete or masonry

• Align flange and mark holes - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Dimple holes with a nail set - Before drilling, make a dent in the surface to prevent the drill bit from drifting.
• Drill holes for the anchor - Use a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit to make a hole for the anchor. Follow the instructions for drilling the hole from the anchor manufacturer.
• Remove dust from holes - Use a air hose or vaccum cleaner to get the debris out of the holes.
• Attach flanges with anchors - How you will do this depends on anchor style. But if you use hammer-in anchors, then put a nut on the end of the threads to protect the threads while you hammer the anchor into place.
• Cut off excess bolt - If you have excess bolt that is exposed after tightening the anchors, use a hack saw to remove the excess.

Anchoring to wood

• Align flange - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size lag screw that you are using.
• Attach flange with screws - Use a socket set to screw the lag screw into place.

• Align bracket and mark holes - Begin by placing the bracket against the wall and marking the holes.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a Pilot hole for the screws that will be used to attach the brackets. A hammer drill will be required if you are drilling into concrete or masonry.
• Attach brackets to wall - Attach the brackets with the appropriate kind of screw for the material that you are anchoring into.

When it comes to the differences in the handrail kits, attaching the rail to the handrail brackets is where there is the most diversity. Some railings will be much easier to attach than others.

• Attaching directly to the fitting - The majority of our kits contain fittings which allow the tube to slide through a hole. If this is case, then the job is easy! Simply slip the tube through the hole in the fitting and tighten down the grub screw.
• Drilling into tube - Some railing brackets are designed to connect to the tube with screws. If this is the case, then make pilot holes with a drill before attempting to screw into the tube. Even if your screws are "self-drilling" we recommend making a pilot hole. Pilot holes can be made by aligning the grab rail on the brackets and using a marker to mark each hole. Once the hole is marked, take the railing off the brackets and pre-drill the holes in a stable location. After you have made the pilot holes, set the railing on the brackets and attach with the appropriate screws.

Only some of our kits will require tube caps, where the rail itself extends beyond the post. Once your entire handrail is assembled, you'll want to tap the tube caps into any exposed ends of the rails and posts. It is best to do this with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, then cover the cap with a piece of cardboard to protect the metal from scratches while you tap it in with a standard hammer.